At the India Fashion Forum (IFF) Innovators Club | Sustainability & Innovation Conclave, held on October 3, 2024, at the ITC Maratha, Mumbai, industry leaders tackled one of the most pressing challenges facing fashion: Exploring Materials and Innovation for Fashion. Moderated by Prem Sadhwani, Head of Business Development at Sanitized AG, the panel brought together insights from experts at top global companies. The discussion focused on preferred sourcing strategies to strengthen the industry’s future resilience.
On the panel of experts were:
- Navneet Krishnan, Head, Brand Solutions, South Asia Archroma India Pvt. Ltd.,
- Ritesh Sharma, Head, Brand & Retail R|ElanTM,
- Sucharu Uppal, Joint President, Brand and Retail, Aditya Birla Group,
- Rishi Suri, Business Development Director (South Asia), The LYCRA Company
Kickstarting the discussion, Prem Sadhwani said, “From sourcing teams to product managers and designers, everyone is talking about what materials they start with and how those decisions impact the end product. How brands engage with raw materials and the experiences experts have when collaborating with them form the backbone of how they build their sustainable strategies.”
Bringing an engaging perspective to the table, Ritesh Sharma, Head – Brand & Retail, R|Elan™ underscored, “The most encouraging aspect of the sustainability movement is that the industry is eager to embrace it at home, at work, and in the larger supply chain. Some companies have already established clear sustainability goals for 2025 or 2030, and others are moving closer towards actionable targets.”
“The process starts at the raw material stage. That’s the key component in any garment, and it’s where we, as fibre manufacturers, can really make a difference,” he noted.
Furthermore, identifying a major gap in its implementation process, he added, “Right now, sustainability is driven by brands and value chains, but the consumer isn’t demanding it yet. A few key principles that will define the next era of sustainable fashion are measurability, traceability, and transparency, and our team is already applying these principles to make sustainability more tangible for brands at all stages.”
Industry Insight: Adapting Fibre Innovation to India’s Unique Market
The discussion also explored the challenge of presenting evolving fibre innovations to Indian consumers, highlighting the need for a tailored approach in this diverse market. Sadhwani highlighted the complexity of educating audiences on new fibres for each collection, to which Sucharu Uppal, Joint President, Brand and Retail, Aditya Birla Group, responded by noting how global brands are driving innovation.
She said, “Global brands are raising the bar, compelling manufacturers to not only meet local compliance but also anticipate future global standards, such as those set for 2030.”
“The Indian consumer is highly value-driven. They need fashionable, good-looking clothes at a good price, and they’re not going to pay more for sustainability,” she said, stressing that Indian brands will have no choice but to align with global trends, but in a way that fits local expectations.
“Around 87% of our clothing is recycled in this country, and Bharat is already using a lot of recycled materials without worrying about fibre mixes. The consumer doesn’t care. This presents a fabulous opportunity to treat the Indian market differently, adopting a unique strategy rather than mirroring overseas approaches,” she further stated.
“Therefore, while collections need constant updates to showcase new fibres across categories like t-shirts, bed sheets, and denim, we need to reinstate the importance of rethinking how sustainable products are marketed in India,” she added.
India’s Leading Practices in Recycling & Sustainability
The discussion also focused on India’s leading practices in recycling, wherein Sharma pointed out, “Some of the practices in India are in fact the best in the world, particularly when it comes to garment collection and waste management. India recycles approximately 2.5 billion PET bottles annually, a figure that is set to double soon.
“Today, India is able to collect more than 90% of the PET bottles and recycle them, which is among the highest rates globally,” he stated, emphasising the potential of India’s recycling capabilities.”.
He also stressed the importance of a cohesive value chain, saying, “We work with the entire value chain, bringing solutions together. When we show fabric samples, our aim is to ensure they are ready for brands to adopt immediately without needing trials.”
Rishi Suri, Business Development Director (South Asia), The LYCRA Company added depth to the discussion by highlighting the sustainability journey of The LYCRA Company, which began with recycled PET bottles.
“We have graduated to using polyester textile waste to make products like Coolmax and thermal fabrics. These innovations are not only being adopted by global brands but are also making their way into the Indian market. Global brands are now selling these products in India,” Suri noted, showcasing the increasing availability of sustainable options.
However, Suri expressed concern about the varying levels of enthusiasm among Indian brands regarding sustainable practices.
“In India, we are still in the very early stages of this journey. There’s not the same hunger among Indian brands as there is globally for sustainable solutions,” he remarked, pointing out a gap that needs to be addressed.
Overall, the discussion highlighted both the significant progress made in sustainability practices within India and the challenges that remain, emphasising the need for a differentiated approach to drive meaningful change in the local market.
Moving on, Sadhwani raised a crucial point regarding the intersection of global technologies and the Indian market, particularly the concerns brands have about the availability of products for trials.
He emphasised, “Brands often have tight deadlines to launch seasonal collections, leading to pressing questions about readiness and logistical support.”
Role of Sustainability in Product Development
Navneet Krishnan, Head, Brand Solutions, South Asia Archroma India Pvt. Ltd. asserted, “Sustainability is something that is built in; it’s not an option anymore. As brands explore the integration of new technologies, one of the pressing enquiries they often make is about the immediate feasibility of developing prototypes. While brands are eager to innovate, the complexities involved in launching products from global platforms to the Indian market cannot be underestimated. Successful development usually requires multiple iterations rather than a single attempt, making innovation iterative in nature.”
In this landscape, the session highlighted the capabilities of individual production facilities.
Krishnan said, “It is essential to have samples ready before engaging with brands, as each facility has specific strengths and limitations that can impact the development process. This readiness can significantly streamline discussions and help in aligning expectations.”
He also addressed the varying motivations among brands regarding sustainability, saying, “The success of innovation often hinges on having individuals within brands who passionately advocate for sustainable practices. This underscores the importance of finding champions within organisations who can drive the sustainability agenda forward.”
Navigating the Intersection of Sustainability, Innovation & Brand Communication
The discussion then moved towards the significance of communication, where Sadhwani emphasised the essential role of effective communication between product managers and marketing teams.
He said, “When a product manager designer starts to adopt a material, ensuring that it is communicated in the right way becomes crucial. This highlights the critical intersection of design and marketing in driving value from innovative materials.”
Sadhwani then brought to light the challenges of navigating brand licensing processes and material communication, focusing on making these processes more convenient for brands.
He highlighted, “Some past experiences have not been easy when it comes to dealing with brand licensing. Some pertinent issues have been the complications of getting the right tags in place and ensuring vendors adhere to these standards. To address these concerns, a streamlined approach to material messaging has also been established, featuring standardised hang tags that clearly convey sustainability and innovation aspects.”
Providing his insights to the process, Suri added, “We have a standardised process for conveying our sustainability and innovation messages to consumers, utilising specific hang tags that effectively communicate these aspects. Brands can easily customise these tags, and we offer assistance in doing so. It’s crucial for the product manager to determine if our solution aligns with their brand. If it does, the solution is readily available. Additionally, we certify and test our fabrics to ensure they meet all required standards, confirming their integrity and adherence to our technology.”
Uppal also highlighted the stringent regulations surrounding greenwashing claims globally, especially in the U.S., and emphasised, “These claims must be backed by traceable, scientifically validated data that is third-party auditable.
She also highlighted that raw material manufacturers must ensure that brands can substantiate their claims with solid evidence, such as a press release or launching a new collection. In both scenarios, it is important to closely collaborate with yarn and fabric manufacturers, nurturing these relationships to facilitate successful product integration into the brand’s core line.
However, she cautioned, “Achieving sustainability requires understanding price pressures and the complexities of adopting recycled materials, which often have a different cost structure and life cycle than traditional products. Recycled products have a higher initial cost, as seen in other renewable industries.”
“The key to true sustainability lies in effectively identifying products that can incorporate recycled materials while managing cost dynamics for bulk adoption. A one-stop-shop solution approach is necessary for ongoing success in material innovation, indicating a shift in strategy for manufacturers and brands alike,” she said.
Following this, Sharma discussed the flexibility of their organisation in supporting brands through existing and new value chains for sustainable product adoption. This brought forth the importance of adjusting product specifications such as weight, cost, blend, and drape, which often requires significant re-engineering efforts.
He highlighted, “We call on application experts to enhance product development in specific areas like denim and active fabrics, ensuring that they can effectively meet brand needs. It is also important for brands to base their claims on solid evidence. For this, we conduct fabric testing, and we have developed standards for quality, supporting smaller spinners with free testing services. Our fabric library conducts comprehensive testing, enabling brands to confidently communicate product benefits.”
Additionally, he mentioned the presence of a dedicated team to assist brands with co-marketing and legal considerations regarding product claims, ensuring compliance with various regulations and boosting brand confidence in their sustainability messaging.
Challenges & Opportunities
The discussion then progressed to the challenges and opportunities in the apparel sector, with a strong emphasis on collaboration, innovation, and sustainability. The conversation revolved around bridging the gap between suppliers, brands, and consumers, with a focus on how innovations can be seamlessly integrated into existing retail structures.
The discussion highlighted that retailers often need to integrate sustainable innovations into their brand propositions, a complex process that involves not only adopting new products but also ensuring they fit within the brand’s existing structure. For instance, Pepe Jeans has collaborated with partners such as Lycra, Viscose, Lenzing EcoVero™, and R|Elan to promote sustainability. In addition to these efforts, it focuses on educating consumers about how these innovations contribute to a greener fashion future.
Despite these collaborations, integrating such products into the current product basket remains difficult. This challenge is further compounded by issues related to pricing and category fitment, both of which are essential for ensuring that a product appeals to end consumers and succeeds in the market. The discussion emphasised that balancing these factors is critical for the long-term success of sustainable initiatives in fashion.
Building on this, Suri highlighted the importance of communication in the process, “You adopted the product, but if the consumer doesn’t know about it, that newness is lost. So, conveying the uniqueness of a product to consumers is vital in driving sales and ensuring market differentiation.”
Sucharu Uppal added another layer to the discussion, emphasising the responsibility of fibre manufacturers to ensure material availability across the value chain. She cited examples of global brands coming together to agree on fibre suppliers and yarn quality to streamline production processes.
“In South Africa, for example, three competing retailers managed to align on using a mechanically recycled cotton blend with viscose to bring down costs, showcasing the potential of cross-brand collaboration. If top global brands can talk to each other, there’s scope for Indian brands to do the same,” She suggested.
Addressing the challenge of fast fashion, Krishnan asked about the difficulties brands face when working with multiple partners, especially in terms of compliance, pricing, and lead times.
To this, Sucharu responded by sharing an example of a successful collaboration with a global fast fashion brand that releases new collections every two weeks.
She said, “This collaboration required seamless coordination between garment makers, fabric suppliers, and fibre producers to ensure quick turnaround times. It needs a lot of planning and collaboration, but it’s achievable.”
Collaboration emerged as a central theme throughout the discussion, and Sharma explained, “Fibre manufacturers can ‘plug and play’ into a brand’s value chain, provided there is effective communication. Additionally, brands need to provide projections in advance to ensure smooth production and material availability.”
Finally, Suri noted, “For brands to truly innovate, they may need to shift their focus from simply collaborating with fabric mills to also engaging fibre manufacturers at an early stage. Maybe that change in mindset is necessary for better innovation and newness.”
The session concluded with Sadhwani summarising the two key takeaways as collaboration and communication. He emphasised the importance of involving mill partners and raw material suppliers early in the process to avoid last-minute challenges.
In closing, the panel provided a comprehensive view of the challenges and opportunities within the apparel industry, highlighting the need for stronger collaboration across the value chain to meet the growing demand for sustainable and innovative products.
