Block printing in the Indian fashion sphere has been crucial in reshaping its design culture. This deceptively simple printing technique was first developed to fasten the process of hand painting onto traditionally sourced fabrics. The recorded history of block-printed fabrics dates back to around 3500 to 1300 BC, a time when machinery and mass production were entirely non-existent.
After many decades, owing to the creative interventions and ingenuity of several fashion designers, the age-old technique once considered traditional and unrelated to high fashion, has now staged a remarkable resurgence. Today, India is one of the largest manufacturers and exporters of block-printed fabrics. So, whether it’s Rajasthan’s popular Dabu print, using mud printing technique, or Gujarat’s Ajrakh, featuring geometric motifs, each of these prints encapsulates the country’s rich culture and heritage.
Today, this labour-intensive art form is being modernized by leading fashion labels and designers who aim to steer away from fleeting trends and restore value to an ancient and intricate style of fabric design. Moreover, as modern-day consumers increasingly seek meaningful and unique fashion choices, block printing has established its place beyond an art form as a valuable and commercially successful craft in the fashion industry.
Here are a few factors that have played an important role in fostering the growth and revival of block printing –
- Global Awareness: Increased globalization and digital connectivity have introduced the traditional craft to a wider, global audience.
- Designer Collaborations: Many fashion designers, who value the art form, collaborate with artisans or experts in organic dyeing and printing, to create exclusive and long-lasting collections.
- Design Innovation: Designers today have revamped this style of printing by experimenting with new colour combinations, motifs, and fabric blends, thus keeping the technique fresh and appealing to modern tastes.
- Retail Expansion: Retailers have recognized the demand for block-printed fashion and have expanded their offerings. From small boutiques to large fashion chains, many now stock block-printed clothing in larger quantities, making it more accessible to consumers.
- Sustainability and Slow Fashion: With growing concerns about environmental sustainability and ethical fashion, consumers are seeking alternatives to mass-produced, fast-fashion items. Block printing, with its eco-friendly practices and emphasis on artisanal craftsmanship, aligns with the principles of slow fashion, making it an attractive choice for conscious consumers.
Based on these factors, IMAGES Business of Fashion explores the mastery of block-printing techniques through 4 distinguished brands in India that have gained recognition for their expertise in crafting enduring and distinctive fabrics.
- Good Earth
Good Earth is a premium design house distinguished for homegrown luxury retail in India. Founded by Anita Lal in 1996, the brand’s USP is to leverage ancient techniques, culture and heritage to create exquisite products in breathtaking designs. The brand offers finely handcrafted home, apparel and gifting items; its apparel segment expands to womenswear, menswear and kidswear.
Some of the brand’s collections such as their ‘Mehran’ collection, features easy, effortless styles, all hand-block printed with natural dyes in the Ajrakh technique with conventional geometric and floral patterns. The collection also showcases Good Earth’s signature ‘Mingora’ print, where Buddhist lotuses, oriental clouds, and fish scale textures merge to form an entirely new pattern.
- KARDO
Kardo was founded in 2013 by Rikki Kher with a desire to slow things down and attend to the smaller details in menswear. Their garments are a tribute to the traditional weaving, dying and printing techniques in India. Kardo’s collections make use of fabrics such as natural dyed handloom, block printing, natural indigo denim and much more. The brand
actively collaborates with artisans across India to keep these art-forms alive and promote sustainable fashion.
These artisans render their expertise to a wide range of block-printed products that include caps, bucket hats, shirt-jackets, vests and trousers. Kardo collaborates with block-print experts from Rajasthan who hand-stamp motifs onto fresh fabrics; a skill often passed down through generations, requiring patience and precision.
Kardo also believes in celebrating their workers, not only by paying fair wages for their craftsmanship, but also giving them due credit which they deserve. They do so by attaching a special tag onto each garment, highlighting the names of the hands involved in the making process of each piece.
- AND
Founded in 1995 by Anita Dongre, House of Anita’s Dongre’s AND label is known for its 
commitment to slow and sustainable living. The brand promotes ethical fashion practices and is constantly seen to take steps towards improving its credentials by using eco-friendly materials and by adhering to responsible manufacturing processes.
In line with these practices, Anita Dongre’s AND label often creates stunning womenswear using traditional printing techniques. For instance, her ‘Crafts of India – An Ode to Bhuj’ collection brings forward Indian crafts through classic silhouettes. Among other striking features, it captures the traditional crafts of Ajrakh hand-block printing from the indigenous communities of Bhuj, Gujarat. The fabrics used in this collection are in vibrant colours and intricate patterns in the traditional Kutchi hues of reds and blues.
- FabIndia
FabIndia was founded by John Bissell in 1960 with an aim to promote India’s rich
textiles and craft traditions while also providing sustainable livelihoods to artisans and weavers. Much of the brand’s collections makes use of high-quality, organic cotton and its designs are often found in vibrant shades accompanied by playful Indian-inspired motifs.
Here, one of the most widespread techniques used for fabric decoration is the hand block printing. The brand onboards artisans who are remarkably skilled and use engraved wooden blocks, with separate blocks for each colour, which is further pressed against the fabric with great precision to creating visually captivating designs.
